The first small seedling of hazel, which is popularly called hazel, we acquired on the market in the early 90s. Its variety was unknown. At that time, hazel was a rare plant in our gardens due to the lack of planting material in stores.
Two years later, in the forest at the edge, I found a rather tall shoot about 60 cm high near the mature hazel bushes. It was a separately growing branch without side shoots.
I gently pulled this shoot out of the ground, wrapped the small roots in wet moss, put it in a plastic bag and brought it home. I planted him in one row, three meters from the purchased hazel.
So that these shrubs do not interfere with fruit crops in the future, they were planted near the fence on the eastern side of the site. We did this so that when they grow up, they can shield our site from the wind, because it is located on the outskirts of the village, next to an abandoned field.
Hazel seedlings grew rapidly, apparently responding to the care and attention given to them. I planted the plants in a specially dug hole, into which I poured several buckets of compost, rotted manure and a handful of superphosphate. All the components were thoroughly mixed together with the earth taken out of the pit. Then every year, in the spring, I put under the bushes one handful of azophoska or nitroammofoska and a bucket of rotted manure and compost. When the bushes grew, in the spring I applied only complex fertilizer, scattering it around the tree trunks. In a dry summer, she watered the hazel abundantly once a week.
Lilac bushes and the most common, ubiquitous bush roses were planted in a row next to the hazel. Later I read somewhere that hazel roots emit toxic substances, which means that under these bushes and next to them, no other plants can survive. And so it happened a few years later. The bush rose "ran away" from the unwanted neighborhood, sprouting new shoots far from the hazel roots, and the mother plants themselves died. And this despite the fact that they grew up in a sunny place. The lilac lived a little longer, but was depressed all the time. And then she died too.
So the hazel conquered a large living space for itself. Perhaps this also happened because the hazel has a powerful root system. Even the grass doesn't grow under it.
In five meters, under the neighboring bushes of lilacs, a whimper grows, but it does not "get close" to hazel. The rotted manure and compost, which we introduced into the hazel tree trunk circle, did not produce friendly shoots of weeds (and there are a lot of weed seeds in them) either. This property of hazel is very convenient when it comes time to collect nuts. You don't need to look for them in the grass, they are all in plain sight.
The first harvest - a handful of nuts, we collected and tasted five years after planting. We collect more than ten liters of nuts from two bushes. In this case, part of the crop is carried off by mice, and sometimes squirrels.
I have heard complaints from gardeners, who also grow hazel on their plot, that their fruit yields are very meager. Perhaps we are harvesting such a rich harvest due to the fact that two different varieties of hazel grow in the same area: cultivated and its wild relative, which are pollinated in spring, and the plants receive the necessary elements for nutrition. Our bushes have grown tall, but we do not collect the nuts from the branches, but wait for them to ripen and fall off themselves. We do not notice any difference in the taste of the nucleoli and their size between cultivated hazel and those brought from the forest. They are tasty, in my opinion, tastier than hazelnuts sold in stores, they have a kind of pleasant aroma. The crop usually ripens by the end of September.
We dry the nuts in the house, sprinkling them on newspapers. This process takes at least one month if you are in a warm room. If they do not dry well, then the nucleoli will be close to the shell, and then it is inconvenient to prick them, as they crumble into small pieces.
Our hazel does not produce sprouts, but hazel sprouts appear every year in different parts of the site. It is the mice who carry the nuts that we did not have time to collect throughout the site, and bury them in the ground. And in the spring they germinate, sometimes forming continuous thickets of young shoots. We pull them out of the ground like weeds, and then plant them in the designated place for growing. We give the grown saplings to the neighbors. I think that now it is possible to carry the surplus planting material back to the forest in the fall and plant them there. Young shoots are transplanted completely painlessly from early spring to late autumn. Even in summer, weighed out from the beds (emerged from the nuts) and planted in another place, hazel plants take root well.
Once every five years, we thin out the hazel bushes so that it is convenient to approach them, and there is no shading inside the crown, since hazel grows not as a single tree, but drives the bush out of several trunks. At the end of September, we cut down excess and thin weak branches. I cover the sections with garden pitch.
I think that it is necessary and useful to grow hazel in garden and summer cottages, because the kernels of its nuts are very tasty and healthy. And not just the cores. I read that the leaves, bark and fruits of hazel are used for medicinal purposes. Young, May leaves are harvested, they are dried in the air. The bark is harvested in spring and autumn, dried in a well-ventilated area. Ripe fruits are dried in an oven or dryer at a temperature of 60-70 ° C. Shelf life of leaves 1 year, bark - 2 years, fruits - 1 year.
The plant has an astringent, anti-dysentery, antipyretic, vasodilating effect. Kernels improve bowel function, help dissolve kidney stones, and exhibit tonic and stimulating properties. Hazelnuts sold in stores are expensive, and they are inferior in taste to our hazelnuts.
And most importantly for gardeners - this shrub does not require special attention, only in the first years after planting it needs to be well fertilized in the spring and watered several times over the summer in hot weather. After three or four years, you will have to remember about it in the spring, in order to throw a handful of fertilizer under the bush, and in the fall, to collect the grown crop. The only rule when planting: you need to plant hazel along the edge of the site and prevent it from being adjacent to cultivated trees and shrubs, which it oppresses.
gardener, candidate of geographical sciences,
• Hazelnuts and hazelnuts decorate the garden and produce crops
• Hazel - hazel on your site
• Cultivation of Manchurian walnut in gardens and dachas
• American walnut
• Gray walnut and Siebold walnut
• Introduction of walnuts to the north
• Experience in growing walnut crops in the northern and eastern regions
• Soap tree - sapindus
Hazel, or simply speaking hazelnut, is found on the territory of almost all of our country. Simultaneously, the main advantage of this shrub and its main cunning lies in its unpretentiousness. After all, you can plant hazel at least with a root shoot, at least a handle, at least a nut, but it will be very difficult to bring it out - it is tenacious and gives numerous shoots. It is no coincidence that this shrub is considered a weed in forestry and quickly captures felling.
Despite its wide distribution, hazel is quite demanding on the soil. She prefers lime-rich, fertile, loose soils. Calmly tolerates the lack of sun, but in the absence of water it reduces the yield. By the way, hazel bears fruit unevenly - there are years when yields are high, and it happens that there is not a single ovary on an adult bush.
You can grow hazel from a seedling bought in a nursery, or a young bush brought from the forest. In any case, planting is best done in the spring, before the buds open. The planting hole must be dug and fenced with slate or boards to a depth of 40-50 cm. Care for young hazel consists of regular watering and loosening, composting (2 buckets per 1 sq. M.) And pruning. For maximum fruiting, there should be no more than 10-12 shoots on the bush.
|Bush height||Crown diameter||Life span||Entering fruiting|
|3-5 m||Up to 7 m||60-80 years old||For 5-10 years|
Hazelnuts and hazelnuts are usually considered the same plant, but this is far from the case. Both nuts belong to the Birch family. At the same time, the wild plant is the same hazel. Hazelnuts are selected varieties of hazel, giving the maximum yield. Hybrid varieties are also classified as hazelnuts.
Unlike hazel, hazelnuts are a shrub that is thermophilic. Hazelnuts have a rounded shape, but hazelnuts are more elongated and large with high yields.
Important! Not every variety is suitable for growing in the middle latitudes of Russia.
Hazelnuts and hazelnuts have approximately the same content of nutrients and vitamins. Hazelnuts have a more tart taste and calorie content, the class of these nuts is higher. But hazelnuts are still more useful, since the bush grows in natural conditions.
Hazelnuts are nutritious and delicious with a high calorie content. Nuts are very useful for the body, due to the rich composition of trace elements and vitamins.
One of the most famous types of nuts is hazelnut.
There is almost no need to care for hazelnuts. The first five to six years, while the plant has not yet begun to actively bear fruit, the trunk circle is shallowly loosened several times during the season and weeds are removed. You can cover the entire near-stem part with mowed grass.
The trunk circle of a hazelnut is a part of the earth equal to the diameter of the crown.
All manipulations with the soil must be carried out carefully so as not to damage the superficially lying roots. If you need to add organic fertilizer, sand or lime, digging is carried out to a depth of no more than 7 cm.
Soil care after entering fruiting:
Hazelnuts love moisture. It is no coincidence that hazel grows in nature along the banks of rivers and on the slopes of humid ravines. The more moisture in the soil, the greater the yield.
The undersized bush reaches a height of 3.7 meters and a diameter of 4 meters. Fruiting in clusters of 3-8 pieces, sometimes up to 22. The wrapper is whole or cut on one side, with an interception at the top, 2-2.5 times longer than the nut. Nuts are of medium size, oval in shape, pointed, with a small convex or lumpy light gray base. The shell is thin, brown or light brown, softly pubescent in the upper part and with darker longitudinal grooves. The kernel is full, pleasant taste, contains 64.89% oil. Nuts ripen in the second half of August. Harvest 6-8 kg per bush. Recommended for industrial culture in Ukraine.
An excellent pollinator. On one bush there are 4-6 thousand catkins. If we take into account that one earring forms about 4 million dust grains, then the exceptional value of this variety as a pollinator becomes obvious. High frost resistance.